Caring for your rabbit
On the off chance that you are contemplating getting a pet, you might want to consider getting a rabbit. Rabbits make fantastic house pets, as they have brilliant identities and have a passive attitude to life. To keep your Rabbit haoppy , they do require some unique care, starting with a lot of feed and veggies, a warm and comfortable home, and enough time to run and jump in the grass.
1. Get an appropriately-sized cage.
For a normal estimated rabbit, you'll require an enclosure that is no less than four feet wide, two feet deep, and two feet tall.
The bunny ought to have the capacity to set down and extend and still have space for food and water and a litter box.
Open air pens for rabbits can be bought or you can fabricate one yourself.
The pen ought to have space for the rabbit to settle, jump around, space for nourishment and water and a litterbox.
Get an large pen to give additional space to the rabbit to move around.
Extra Large bunnies will require bigger lodging.
The rabbit should have plenty of room to roam around. Make a point to have a sufficiently large bedroom !
2, Get the right type of cage. . Search for a pen with a strong base and sides made out of wire intended for rabbits.
Think about this as the "sanctum" for the rabbit to rest in and with a water. bowl
The setup ought to be big enough so the bunny can spend 8-12 hours outside in a large safe enclosure.
On the off chance that you discover an enclosure with a wire base, put a strong wood board inside to line the base. Wire bottoms can hurt rabbits' feet.
An open air box ought to be strong and give security from the climate and predators.
You can purchase or assemble a cubby. You should ensure the rabbits are shaded area from predators and the sun.
Try not to house your rabbit outside in a box independent from anyone else.
Rabbits are profoundly social creatures, so get a partner rabbit for compnay, you can have them spayed or fixed.
3. Line the cage with hay or soft wood shavings, such as those made of pine. There are likewise some claim to layers of wood shavings.
Rabbits get a kick out of the chance to make comfortable homes, so fill the base of the enclosure with delicate common material to keep them amused..
Feed, the most critical piece of a rabbits life is food,be so ensure you pick the correct roughage for your rabbit.
Grass feeds are proper for rabbits. Keep away from horse feed as it is too high in calories, protein and calcium .
4. Place the cage in a rabbit-proof area.
You'll need to have the capacity to give your bunny an area to jump around, so a chance to put the home in a room that you wouldn't miond sharing and that yts ok for the bunny.
For example, remove any electrical wiring, and furniture of chemicals or plants that may hurt the rabbit in the room.
Rabbits jump at the chance to bite power lines , can purchase cable protectors from a hardware, to prevent your rabbit from biting them.
Utilize a child door or exercise pen for canines for easy access.
5. Provide a litter box. Rabbits will normally prefer a favourite spot as a "restroom" again and again, generally one corner of the enclosure.
Use cat litter in a little litter box (accessible at pet stores) or use and replace with paper daily, and place it in the rabbit's favored corner.
Think about putting small litter box in the rabbit's play areas.
6. Provide a hiding place in your rabbit's cage. Rabbits are tunneling making creatures, so giving concealing spots, similar to logs or cardboard boxes, is useful for their adventure times. .
A good house may encourage a couple of rabbits to give you some offspring.
7 Provide cardboard boxes for the rabbit play in, hide in and chew on. Rabbits revere chewing wood, and it keeps their teeth sound.
In the event that you don't give rabbit a chewing post or tidbits, rabbit might bite on your furniture or different things you have lying around.
Ensure your rabbit dependably has something safe to bite on. This will wear out its teeth and avert damage to your furniture
1 Put out unlimited grass hay. This is the primary habit of a rabbit's eating regimen thus it ought to be accessible consistently.
Oat, and brome feed are great decisions. Put it out every day in ideal spot in the rabbit's enclosure.
For youthful developing rabbits (up to 7 months) or pregnant or lactating rabbits, pellets will give additional calories expected in the life stages.
Dried prepared grass feed is at most pet shops or you can grow a plate of grass uniquely for the rabbit.
2 Give the rabbit a dish of rabbit alfalfa or timothy hay pellets.
These contain protein and fiber, fundamental for developing bunnies. Grown-up rabbits ought to get 1/8 glass for each 5 pounds of body weight.
Rabbits are herbivores and even roughage and vegetables can influence them putting on weight.
Pellets are more thought versitile than feed.
Keep in mind that your rabbit can't live on pellets alone.
It is imperative for the rabbit'sto eat grass a it helps with roughage and helps avert hairballs (trichobezoars)
3 Offer plenty of vegetables.
Rabbits are well known for loving carrots, yet these should just be given once in a while, as they have a high sugar content. Always Wash the veggies totally.
Give greens like spinach and collards and turnip greens. Also mustard greens, cilantro/parsley, watercress, celery, and dandelion leaves are great vegetables for your rabbit.
Two cups of vegetables daily is a decent sum for most grown-up rabbits.
Greens help to avoid stomach related problems.
More youthful rabbits, 12 weeks , you can include one veggie seven days, about an a large portion of an ounce at an opportunity to abstain from upsetting the cecum.
You can likewise sustain your rabbit organic products like apples, blueberries, strawberries and bananas as extraordinary treats.
Organic product is high in sugar, and ought to be encouraged sparingly, around 1 to 2 ounces for every 6 pounds of body weight.
4 Avoid giving your rabbit foods that are bad for it.
A few vegetables aren't good for rabbits, including corn, ice sheet lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, kale and rhubarb.
Likewise dont feed rabbits with bamboo, seeds, grains, and any sort of meat.
Human nourishments, for example, bread, chocolate, treat, dairy, and anything cooked ought not be given to rabbits.
Try not to give your bunny light lettuce, (for example, chunk of ice).
It might give them loose bowels and stomach microscopic organisms in the gut.
Never give rabbits grass cuttings, as this will cause genuine medical issues.
You can give a rabbit grass that has not been splashed with herbicides or pesticides and let the bunny pick what to eat on the yard.
Nonetheless, maintain your rabbit a safe distance from cut grass that is in mulch heap or cut by the trimmer.
5 Provide plenty of clean water. New water should be changed day by day.
You can place it in a bowl or in a container of sorts, keep in mind the bowl could spill..
Ensure it never runs out of water and clean regularly.
If using a water bottle, it isn't stuck open or shut.
1. Clean the cage every week. Ensure the bunny is under supervision while you are at work.
Clean the shavings from the cage, If you have a plastic cage wash it with hot, foamy water, flush it completely, and let it dry. Fill it with clean feed or shavings.
You should wash out the water dish or container regularly.
The litter box should be changed out each day, and altogether sterilized each week or so with a 10% blanch or 10% white vinegar arrangement. Wash well and permit to dry.
On the off chance that the litter box is plastic or metal, you can likewise put it in the dishwasher.
Have more than one litter box, with the goal that you can switch a spotless one while the other box is grimy or during the time spent being cleaned.
Rabbit pee is exceptionally soluble and precious stones can develop on the surface of the litter box and require the utilization of a descaling arrangement.. 2
2 Keep the temperature right for your rabbit. Ideal temperature for rabbits is 61 to 72oF. In the event that your rabbit is outside,
Give a lot of shade and, on the off chance that it gets extremely hot, convey them inside to ventilating or place solidified water bottles in the pen to enable the rabbit to keep cool.
Rabbits can pass on of warmth stroke.
The rabbit's ears are used to control temperature for their bodies.
On the off chance that they were in the wild, the rabbit would go underground where it is cool to escape the warmth.
3 Brush the rabbit. Washing isn't important, however you can utilize a delicate brush to precisely comb the hair.
On the off chance that you have two rabbits, you may see them preparing each other.
Rabbit cleanser can be used if your rabbit is very messy.
Rabbits for the most should not be showered unless they get extremely messy and are not ready to prep themselves appropriately.
Examine washing instructions your veterinarian, yet when all is said in done, showering a rabbit each 1-2 months, will be ok,
4 Take the rabbit to the veterinarian at least once a year. Rabbits need annual checkups to make sure they're healthy. Many veterinarians who treat cats and dogs do not have expertise in treating bunnies, so you may need to find a vet who treats "exotic" animals.
Depending on where you live, your veterinarian may recommend vaccination for certain diseases like Myxomatosis if you live in the United Kingdom.
In the United States, Myxomatosis vaccination is not currently recommended.
Your veterinarian will do an examination and discuss their findings and make recommendations based on your rabbit’s current condition.
Managing healthy dentition in rabbits may require anesthesia to fully examine the teeth and address any sharp points discovered on the back teeth (premolars and molars).
Myxomatosis is caused by the myxoma virus, a poxvirus spread between rabbits by close contact and biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. The virus causes swelling and discharge from the eyes, nose and anogenital region of infected rabbits. Most rabbits die within 10-14 days of infection however highly virulent strains of the myxoma virus may cause death before the usual signs of infection have appeared.
Myxomatosis was introduced to Australia in 1950 to reduce pest rabbit numbers. The virus initially reduced the wild rabbit population by 95% but since then resistance to the virus has increased and less deadly strains of the virus have emerged. Pet rabbits do not possess any resistance to myxomatosis and mortality rates are between 96-100%. With such a poor prognosis treatment is not usually recommended.
There are two vaccinations against myxomatosis, however these are not available in Australia. Thus the only way to prevent infection is to protect your pet rabbits from biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. Put mosquito netting around your rabbit’s hutch even if indoors (this will help to prevent flystrike as well). If your rabbits are allowed to exercise outside avoid letting them out in the early morning or late afternoon when mosquitoes are more numerous. Please talk to your vet about flea prevention for rabbits. You can use Revolution (Selamectin) or Advantage (Imidocloprid) for flea prevention, but you must check first with your vet for dosages. Do not use Frontline (Fipronil) as this has been associated with severe adverse reactions in rabbits.
If your pet rabbit does develop myxomatosis, your vet will advise the best course of action, which may be euthanasia. Treatment is rarely successful, even if commenced early in the infection and the course of disease is very painful and stressful. Thoroughly disinfect your rabbit hutch, water bottles and food bowls with household bleach, rinsing it off so that it cannot be ingested by any other rabbits. Bringing a new rabbit home is not recommended for at least four months after a case of myxomatosis as the virus is able to survive in the environment for some time.
Owners are reminded to vaccinate their rabbits against rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHD), especially as a new strain known as RHDV2 which has been reported as causing deaths of domestic rabbits. The current RHD vaccine may offer only limited protection against this strain but additional precautions can be taken to help minimise risks.
For a normal estimated rabbit, you'll require an enclosure that is no less than four feet wide, two feet deep, and two feet tall.
The bunny ought to have the capacity to set down and extend and still have space for food and water and a litter box.
Open air pens for rabbits can be bought or you can fabricate one yourself.
The pen ought to have space for the rabbit to settle, jump around, space for nourishment and water and a litterbox.
Get an large pen to give additional space to the rabbit to move around.
Extra Large bunnies will require bigger lodging.
The rabbit should have plenty of room to roam around. Make a point to have a sufficiently large bedroom !
2, Get the right type of cage. . Search for a pen with a strong base and sides made out of wire intended for rabbits.
Think about this as the "sanctum" for the rabbit to rest in and with a water. bowl
The setup ought to be big enough so the bunny can spend 8-12 hours outside in a large safe enclosure.
On the off chance that you discover an enclosure with a wire base, put a strong wood board inside to line the base. Wire bottoms can hurt rabbits' feet.
An open air box ought to be strong and give security from the climate and predators.
You can purchase or assemble a cubby. You should ensure the rabbits are shaded area from predators and the sun.
Try not to house your rabbit outside in a box independent from anyone else.
Rabbits are profoundly social creatures, so get a partner rabbit for compnay, you can have them spayed or fixed.
3. Line the cage with hay or soft wood shavings, such as those made of pine. There are likewise some claim to layers of wood shavings.
Rabbits get a kick out of the chance to make comfortable homes, so fill the base of the enclosure with delicate common material to keep them amused..
Feed, the most critical piece of a rabbits life is food,be so ensure you pick the correct roughage for your rabbit.
Grass feeds are proper for rabbits. Keep away from horse feed as it is too high in calories, protein and calcium .
4. Place the cage in a rabbit-proof area.
You'll need to have the capacity to give your bunny an area to jump around, so a chance to put the home in a room that you wouldn't miond sharing and that yts ok for the bunny.
For example, remove any electrical wiring, and furniture of chemicals or plants that may hurt the rabbit in the room.
Rabbits jump at the chance to bite power lines , can purchase cable protectors from a hardware, to prevent your rabbit from biting them.
Utilize a child door or exercise pen for canines for easy access.
5. Provide a litter box. Rabbits will normally prefer a favourite spot as a "restroom" again and again, generally one corner of the enclosure.
Use cat litter in a little litter box (accessible at pet stores) or use and replace with paper daily, and place it in the rabbit's favored corner.
Think about putting small litter box in the rabbit's play areas.
6. Provide a hiding place in your rabbit's cage. Rabbits are tunneling making creatures, so giving concealing spots, similar to logs or cardboard boxes, is useful for their adventure times. .
A good house may encourage a couple of rabbits to give you some offspring.
7 Provide cardboard boxes for the rabbit play in, hide in and chew on. Rabbits revere chewing wood, and it keeps their teeth sound.
In the event that you don't give rabbit a chewing post or tidbits, rabbit might bite on your furniture or different things you have lying around.
Ensure your rabbit dependably has something safe to bite on. This will wear out its teeth and avert damage to your furniture
Providing Food, Snacks and Water
1 Put out unlimited grass hay. This is the primary habit of a rabbit's eating regimen thus it ought to be accessible consistently.Oat, and brome feed are great decisions. Put it out every day in ideal spot in the rabbit's enclosure.
For youthful developing rabbits (up to 7 months) or pregnant or lactating rabbits, pellets will give additional calories expected in the life stages.
Dried prepared grass feed is at most pet shops or you can grow a plate of grass uniquely for the rabbit.
2 Give the rabbit a dish of rabbit alfalfa or timothy hay pellets.
These contain protein and fiber, fundamental for developing bunnies. Grown-up rabbits ought to get 1/8 glass for each 5 pounds of body weight.
Rabbits are herbivores and even roughage and vegetables can influence them putting on weight.
Pellets are more thought versitile than feed.
Keep in mind that your rabbit can't live on pellets alone.
It is imperative for the rabbit'sto eat grass a it helps with roughage and helps avert hairballs (trichobezoars)
3 Offer plenty of vegetables.
Rabbits are well known for loving carrots, yet these should just be given once in a while, as they have a high sugar content. Always Wash the veggies totally.
Give greens like spinach and collards and turnip greens. Also mustard greens, cilantro/parsley, watercress, celery, and dandelion leaves are great vegetables for your rabbit.
Two cups of vegetables daily is a decent sum for most grown-up rabbits.
Greens help to avoid stomach related problems.
More youthful rabbits, 12 weeks , you can include one veggie seven days, about an a large portion of an ounce at an opportunity to abstain from upsetting the cecum.
You can likewise sustain your rabbit organic products like apples, blueberries, strawberries and bananas as extraordinary treats.
Organic product is high in sugar, and ought to be encouraged sparingly, around 1 to 2 ounces for every 6 pounds of body weight.
4 Avoid giving your rabbit foods that are bad for it.
A few vegetables aren't good for rabbits, including corn, ice sheet lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, kale and rhubarb.
Likewise dont feed rabbits with bamboo, seeds, grains, and any sort of meat.
Human nourishments, for example, bread, chocolate, treat, dairy, and anything cooked ought not be given to rabbits.
Try not to give your bunny light lettuce, (for example, chunk of ice).
It might give them loose bowels and stomach microscopic organisms in the gut.
Never give rabbits grass cuttings, as this will cause genuine medical issues.
You can give a rabbit grass that has not been splashed with herbicides or pesticides and let the bunny pick what to eat on the yard.
Nonetheless, maintain your rabbit a safe distance from cut grass that is in mulch heap or cut by the trimmer.
5 Provide plenty of clean water. New water should be changed day by day.
You can place it in a bowl or in a container of sorts, keep in mind the bowl could spill..
Ensure it never runs out of water and clean regularly.
If using a water bottle, it isn't stuck open or shut.
Keeping Your Rabbit Healthy
1. Clean the cage every week. Ensure the bunny is under supervision while you are at work.
Clean the shavings from the cage, If you have a plastic cage wash it with hot, foamy water, flush it completely, and let it dry. Fill it with clean feed or shavings.
You should wash out the water dish or container regularly.
The litter box should be changed out each day, and altogether sterilized each week or so with a 10% blanch or 10% white vinegar arrangement. Wash well and permit to dry.
On the off chance that the litter box is plastic or metal, you can likewise put it in the dishwasher.
Have more than one litter box, with the goal that you can switch a spotless one while the other box is grimy or during the time spent being cleaned.
Rabbit pee is exceptionally soluble and precious stones can develop on the surface of the litter box and require the utilization of a descaling arrangement.. 2
2 Keep the temperature right for your rabbit. Ideal temperature for rabbits is 61 to 72oF. In the event that your rabbit is outside,
Give a lot of shade and, on the off chance that it gets extremely hot, convey them inside to ventilating or place solidified water bottles in the pen to enable the rabbit to keep cool.
Rabbits can pass on of warmth stroke.
The rabbit's ears are used to control temperature for their bodies.
On the off chance that they were in the wild, the rabbit would go underground where it is cool to escape the warmth.
3 Brush the rabbit. Washing isn't important, however you can utilize a delicate brush to precisely comb the hair.
On the off chance that you have two rabbits, you may see them preparing each other.
Rabbit cleanser can be used if your rabbit is very messy.
Rabbits for the most should not be showered unless they get extremely messy and are not ready to prep themselves appropriately.
Examine washing instructions your veterinarian, yet when all is said in done, showering a rabbit each 1-2 months, will be ok,
4 Take the rabbit to the veterinarian at least once a year. Rabbits need annual checkups to make sure they're healthy. Many veterinarians who treat cats and dogs do not have expertise in treating bunnies, so you may need to find a vet who treats "exotic" animals.
Depending on where you live, your veterinarian may recommend vaccination for certain diseases like Myxomatosis if you live in the United Kingdom.
In the United States, Myxomatosis vaccination is not currently recommended.
Your veterinarian will do an examination and discuss their findings and make recommendations based on your rabbit’s current condition.
Managing healthy dentition in rabbits may require anesthesia to fully examine the teeth and address any sharp points discovered on the back teeth (premolars and molars).
Myxomatosis is caused by the myxoma virus, a poxvirus spread between rabbits by close contact and biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. The virus causes swelling and discharge from the eyes, nose and anogenital region of infected rabbits. Most rabbits die within 10-14 days of infection however highly virulent strains of the myxoma virus may cause death before the usual signs of infection have appeared.
Myxomatosis was introduced to Australia in 1950 to reduce pest rabbit numbers. The virus initially reduced the wild rabbit population by 95% but since then resistance to the virus has increased and less deadly strains of the virus have emerged. Pet rabbits do not possess any resistance to myxomatosis and mortality rates are between 96-100%. With such a poor prognosis treatment is not usually recommended.
There are two vaccinations against myxomatosis, however these are not available in Australia. Thus the only way to prevent infection is to protect your pet rabbits from biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. Put mosquito netting around your rabbit’s hutch even if indoors (this will help to prevent flystrike as well). If your rabbits are allowed to exercise outside avoid letting them out in the early morning or late afternoon when mosquitoes are more numerous. Please talk to your vet about flea prevention for rabbits. You can use Revolution (Selamectin) or Advantage (Imidocloprid) for flea prevention, but you must check first with your vet for dosages. Do not use Frontline (Fipronil) as this has been associated with severe adverse reactions in rabbits.
If your pet rabbit does develop myxomatosis, your vet will advise the best course of action, which may be euthanasia. Treatment is rarely successful, even if commenced early in the infection and the course of disease is very painful and stressful. Thoroughly disinfect your rabbit hutch, water bottles and food bowls with household bleach, rinsing it off so that it cannot be ingested by any other rabbits. Bringing a new rabbit home is not recommended for at least four months after a case of myxomatosis as the virus is able to survive in the environment for some time.
Owners are reminded to vaccinate their rabbits against rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHD), especially as a new strain known as RHDV2 which has been reported as causing deaths of domestic rabbits. The current RHD vaccine may offer only limited protection against this strain but additional precautions can be taken to help minimise risks.
